SUIT BODY SIZE FITTING 101.

A good suit enhances Mother Nature’s gifts: it’s like wearing an Instagram filter, or walking around with flattering lighting constantly overhead. Slip it on, and suddenly you’re a new, better-looking man, as if God Himself has retouched you.
Although, not all suits are good for everybody, or indeed every body. Whether you’re short, tall, skinny, large or stacked, a bespoke/made to measure / custom made solution is required.
Finding the right suit shouldnt be a gamble. This is the Fashion guide to the type of suit that, well, suits your type.

SHORT MEN. 

So what if you drew the vertically challenged genetic straw.Think linear. In other words, the aim is to create the appearance of one long line from head to toe. A neat, tapered trouser worn slightly higher on the hip adds inches to the legs. By contrast, a big break (the amount of trouser that falls onto the shoe) or drop crotch will shorten them, and you. Balance this with a more contemporary length on the jacket. Many brands and retailers offer ‘short’ cut versions of their suits; this elongates your pins, while the deep V-shape created by a two-button jacket ensures your torso isn’t too diminutive.

Extra shirt cuff peeking out from under the arm of the jacket can also help your suit look proportionally smaller and not like an adult size being worn by a child(not to sound offensive)  as will slimmer lapels. At the same time, you want enough structure in the shoulders to balance out your head, which can appear disproportionately large. A diagonal peak lapel simultaneously provides a vertical line and a bit of horizontal heft.

TALL MEN. 

Those in this category have the opposite problem to short men and therefore – surprise, surprise – the opposite solution. More specifically, the aim is to break up the vast space between your head and toes all the way down there in the distance, beneath the clouds.
Your trousers should break (cleanly, though) on your shoes: any hint of mankle will make it look like your suit has shrunk, as will overly short sleeves. There’s a lot of you, so try not to show this off too much.
Your jacket should also be on the longer side to cut your leg line. Don’t fall into the trap of showing a load of trouser fly and, worse still, shirt sticking out below the jacket button.
Speaking of jacket buttons, there are conflicting opinions over whether a third one breaks up a lanky torso or highlights it. The simple answer is that it depends on the placement: a high three-button is creating a long line in one direction; a low two-button is doing the same but in the other direction. Neither is particularly helpful.
An extra ticket pocket (a small flapped opening usually above the right hip pocket) will help clutter you up, as will wearing a pocket square.

Wearing separates is one of your greatest weapons when it comes to looking less lofty. Mixing and matching trousers and blazers not only gets you more wear out of your sartorial wardrobe, it also breaks up a tall frame. You can even further this by adding a belt (your shorter friends should have a few going spare if they have read the above).Lol.  

SKINNY MEN

Skinny men share some of the same problems as the short and tall guy, but predominantly the latter.

Gentlemen with a skinnier build should follow the same advice as a taller client.There’s no need to go overly tapered or skinny fit. The purpose of tailoring is to flatter and disguise any quirks or figurations, not to accentuate them.

Your goal is to add some weight to your physique. Checks and textured weaves can add presence. 
A double-breasted jacket, with its overlapping material at the front and buttons that encourage lateral thinking, will give you visual gains quicker. 

While you might want standard rather than slim lapels to counteract your rakishness, and maybe a bit of extra shoulder padding like the short guy, always keep everything broadly in proportion to your body and head. Too wide and you’ll look like Frasier’s brother. 

LARGER MEN. 

The style world has got increasingly better at catering for guys with larger builds, and therefore you shouldn’t be deterred from tailoring, especially as this is your opportunity to contour.

You’ve got more things in common with the vertically challenged guy, in that you want to create a long – and, crucially, lean – line.
Stay away from large checks as they will shorten your silhouette. A narrow pinstripe on a slimming darker base gives a longer look. 
Meanwhile, the reverse of the skinny guy applies to you: lighter fabrics like hopsack or cotton can take a few optical pounds off. And don’t make the common mistake of going baggy to try to hide your girth, as you’ll only exaggerate it: the jacket should skim your shoulders. You can nip it in to give the illusion of a narrow waist (slanted hip pockets can also perform the same trick), providing it’s not bursting at the seams.

ATHLETIC MEN

Have you been working out? Congratulations: chances are you’ve got the ideal build for a suit. Just don’t mess it up.
It’s a question of proportion: striking the right balance between a tapered waist and the correct fit across broad shoulders.I see too many younger chaps walking around with their jackets hacked in to the point where the waist button is about to pop off.Tailoring is designed to emphasise your form in the same way that the gym does. So if you’ve already put the hard work in at your local iron paradise, you don’t need your suit to do any heavy lifting: Cuts with soft, natural shoulders tend to work best.

In a similar vein, aggressively tapered trousers – a very modern affliction – will make you look like Johnny Bravo(meeeen I loved that cartoon) : balance is always more elegant. (Ditto dramatic peak lapels – a proportionally wide notch is less showy.) Besides, you don’t want people to think you skip leg day.
The only real problem men of this body type have is their ability to buy off the rack. Ready-to-wear is always difficult as the industry tends to expect a big chest to come with a big gut to matchsays. If you can’t spring for bespoke or made-to-measure, find retailers that sell suit jackets and trousers separately.

Leave a comment

Website Powered by WordPress.com.

Up ↑